The Flavors of Spring/Fava and Pea Salad

There are weeks when I doubt myself more than usual, when all I want is some sort of external justification, I want someone or something to give me a reason to believe that everything is going to be OK, that people really do like me, and that it's inner beauty that counts. On weeks like these, I miss home, and when I miss home I do my best to bring home to me. Every spring, when the cherry blossoms start blooming and the baby ducks are following their mother in the 72nd street pond, my mother is insistent on weekly trips to the farmer's market. Aside from tradition, this is pure indulgence, whoever said that only cakes and sweets are indulgent, is just plain wrong. I am the first person to proclaim myself as a sweet tooth, but when I find the freshest, seasonal fruits and vegetables I can't help but think that they are the kings and queens of all things edible, that nothing, no matter how elaborate can surpass the flavors of farm to plate.
The one thing that my mom always buys without fail, are fava beans. Maybe it's that they remind her of her Italian roots, maybe it's that they taste like spring-in-a-pod, no matter what it is, they are always delicious. During our family reunion, we all sat around in the living room, peeling (and then peeling again) fresh favas, popping them one by one into our mouths, desperate to make the process go faster. But favas, like the arrival of Spring, can't be rushed. The methodical double peeling may seem tedious to some, but to me it is soothing, and when I taste the fruits of my labor it is worth the time spent doing it. Although I also enjoy peeling them alone, giving myself time to reflect, the best is sitting side by side with a good friend or a loved one, chatting and not seeing the time fly as the daunting pile of pods slowly dinishes. This also defines the stereotypical image of Italian women, sitting outside their homes doing some kind of handiwork, while chatting away with their neighbors. It's all part of a really beautiful experience, of nurturing, providing and creating. Nurturing the vegetables, providing food for your family and creating friendships and relationships that never really go away.
So, on weeks when the blue sky just doesn't seem blue enough and the heat is a burden rather than a joy, I turn to the flavors of home and slowly, everything falls back into place. This fava bean and sweet pea salad is a springtime staple in my house, the smoky pancetta is an ideal backdrop for the sweet peas and slightly more bitter favas. It is also, incredibly easy, because like I said, when it comes to good vegetables, little to no work is need to make it good.

My Mother's Spring Fava and Pea Salad
serves. 8
Time: about 40 mins., excluding fava peeling.
Notes:
•Frozen favas can replace fresh, just remember that they also have a skin that needs to be peeled off. Same goes for the peas (minus the peeling part).
•This recipe can easily be expanded or diminished, and the ingredients can be changed pretty easily, chopped asparagus and green beans are other great alternatives.

Ingredients:
• 3 c. sweet peas
• 3 c. peeled favas
• 1/4 c. cubed pancetta
• 3 med. shallots, thinly sliced.
• a few tbsp. olive oil
• sprinkle of coarse sea salt

Instructions:
1) Boil the peas and favas in salty water for 5-6 minutes each. Until, they are cooked through but firm. Set aside to cool.
2) Render the fat from the pancetta, until it is crispy. Spoon the pancetta onto a plate. Add 2 tbsp olive oil to the pan with the remaining fat.
3) Gently caramelized the shallots in the same pan.
4) Combine everything in a large serving bowl. Add a bit more olive oil and salt as necessary.
5) Can be served right away, or can be prepared the night or morning before and refrigerated.

Spring is Here/Berry Butter Cake

Although I have been feeling spring for a few weeks now, today is the first official day of Spring. And with a dinner party to go to, I decided to jump ahead a season and make a summer cake. It is Spring after all, the time of new beginnings, and these possibilities seem endless. I hate (slash love) to be cliche when I talk about Spring, but there is just something poetic about it. Winter blues turn turquoise, the 65 degrees that felt cold in the fall now feel just right, and waking up in the morning with the sun shining feels like pleasure rather than penance.
So to celebrate, I decided to make a summer berry cake with lemon curd filling. The first time I made this cake was in the 7th grade, Memorial Day weekend in Watch Hill, Rhode Island. I was there with my then best friend who also loved to bake and we unanimously picked this recipe out of that month's Gourmet. I don't know why, but I never forgot about this slightly pink cake; a moist spongy gem studded with raspberries, blueberries and blackberries. Today, I decided to give this recipe a face lift by slicing it in two and filling it with tart and creamy lemon curd.

It's always interesting to cook such "American" desserts for my Italian friends. Italian's are not always an easy bunch to please, they have their ways and they like to stick with them. In some ways, I would almost say that making such a sinful dessert for them may leave me with a disadvantage, I have finally made it onto the facebook message roster, it seems that people might actually (gasp) want to hang out with me. So what am I doing? Well I guess I am just doing what I love, following my heart when I feel comfortable doing so. And also, I have an advantage, as an Italian I know that even the finest most high brow Italian could never say no to this cake. Just look at it, isn't it pretty?

Notes:
• I used an 11" round pan instead or the rectangular one suggested, it does lead to thinner layers but I like round cakes.
• I also could have easily doubled the curd recipe, it would have definitely given the cake an extra something.
• Make the curd first and let it cool in the fridge while you assemble the cake.
• Make sure the cake is completely cooled before you cut it in half, if not it will fall apart.

Lemon Curd (from Martha Stewart Living, January 2002)

• 3 large egg yolks
• Zest of 1/2 lemon
• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, (2 lemons)
• 6 tablespoons sugar
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into pieces

Combine yolks, lemon zest, lemon juice, and sugar in a small saucepan. Whisk to combine. Set over medium heat, and stir constantly with a wooden spoon, making sure to stir sides and bottom of pan. Cook until mixture is thick enough to coat back of wooden spoon, 5 to 7 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a medium bowl. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the curd to avoid a skin from forming; wrap tightly. Let cool; refrigerate until firm and chilled, at least 1 hour.

Store, refrigerated in an airtight container, up to 2 days.

Three Berry Butter Cake (from Gourmet, July 2000)

• 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 3 large eggs at room temperature
• 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 2 1/2 cups cake flour (not self-rising)
• 6 cups mixed berries (1 3/4 ponds) such as raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries
• 2 tablespoons confectioners sugar

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 13- by 9- by 2-inch metal baking pan, then line bottom with wax paper and grease paper.

Heat butter with cream in a small saucepan over low heat until melted, then cool.

Beat eggs, granulated sugar, and salt with an electric mixer on high speed until mixture is thick, pale, and forms a ribbon when beaters are lifted, about 5 minutes with a standing mixer or about 12 minutes with a handheld. Add zest, baking powder, and vanilla and mix on low speed until blended.

Add 1 1/4 cups flour and half of butter mixture and mix on low speed until blended. Mix in remaining butter and 1 1/4 cups flour in same manner. Increase speed to medium and beat 1 minute with a standing mixer or 2 minutes with a handheld, or until batter is thick and sticky. Add berries and carefully fold in with a rubber spatula until barely combined. (Raspberries will begin to fall apart, and batter will look slightly pink.) Spoon batter into baking pan, gently smoothing top. Bake in middle of oven until springy to the touch and a tester inserted into center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Cool completely in pan on a rack.

Run a knife around edge of cake, then invert rack over cake and flip cake onto it. Remove wax paper and reinvert onto a platter.

Just before serving, dust with confectioners sugar.