Parting Thoughts/Insalata di Riso

Friends and readers, I am sorry that I have not been keeping up with my part of the deal, as a blogger I should be writing consistently. But, I am not just a blogger, I am also a student and in the summer I get caught up with all things summer, rather than cooking and blogging. I don't feel guilty about that, I feel really lucky, but when September comes around I will be back and better than ever, I promise.
It's hard to believe that I am heading back home in 1 month, my year in Italy is drawing to a close and it's overwhelming. I can't even begin to list the ways in which this year has changed me, and I think the positive effects will continue to appear in so many ways. Saying goodbye is never easy, turning the page is even harder. In these moments of deep nostalgia, it's comfort food that lifts my spirits. The pages are turning, but the flavors are constant, and for that I am infinitely grateful.


In my mind, Insalata di Riso, cold rice salad is the most classic of Italian summer dishes. Seasoned with nutty green olives, salty capers and woodsy oregano, this insalata takes me back to my summers in Italy, with one bite my stomach and my heart, feel at home. This is a lot to say for such a simple dish, and I can't promise that everyone will like it, but the beauty of comfort food is in its diversity.

Sharing this recipe is sharing a part of myself, it's personal, but I hope that by sharing it at least one person will be able to find that joy that I do in this simple but delicious dish.

Insalata di Riso
serves 4

1 c. rice (brown or white)
1 lrg. can of Italian tuna in Olive Oil
2 tbsp. capers in salt, rinsed and chopped
1/3 c. green olives (Cerignola), chopped
1/2 c. chopped cherry tomatoes
3 tbsp. dry oregano
dried pepper flakes (optional)
salt and olive oil

Directions:
1) Prepare rice according to directions and let cool to room temperature.
2) Combine the rice with the rest of the indredients.

•This keeps for up to 3 days in the fridge.

Daring Bakers/Bakewell Tart

For my third Daring Baker’s challenge I was really happy to make something that I had never even heard of before. I am going to say it is a Bakewell Tart, because I spent this past weekend on a boat with and English crew and when I said Bakewell Pudding the cook responded “Oh, a Bakewell Tart, but of course!” (In an English accent).

The June Daring Bakers' challenge was hosted by Jasmine of Confessions of a Cardamom Addict and Annemarie of Ambrosia and Nectar. They chose a Traditional (UK) Bakewell Tart... er... pudding that was inspired by a rich baking history dating back to the 1800's in England.















Although the history of this dessert is up for debate, I am for more interested in the fact that this tart was so delicious, especially because I wasn’t expecting it to be. I have a confession to make; I really do not like almond extract. It reminds me of the soap in public bathrooms and in my mind makes everything taste worse. Recently I have noticed that the highest quality almond extract can be enjoyable, but even then I am always a bit hesitant. Because the recipe for the Bakewell Tart called for almond extract, I was certain that I was not going to like it. That is until I realized that I was making this dessert and thus had full control over the flavors. That’s where the fun began.

The first step was to eliminate all the almond extract from the recipe, I already liked it more and I hadn’t tasted it yet. I was also worried that frangipane would be a bit rich for a summer dessert. So I decided to make it with peach curd rather than jam, the acidity in the curd helped to cut the richness a lot. Even though the shortcrust pastry dough was impossible to work with in my million-degree apartment, it came out perfectly tender and just sweet enough. I accidently (on purpose) overindulged in raw dough scraps, which I highly suggest because YUM, I love raw dough. Although, I know because of the raw egg content I shouldn’t suggest that anyone try this. But if you’re a daredevil like me….I’m not saying anything else.

Fully cooked and almond extract free, this tart was absolutely delicious. It was nutty and just dense enough, and the creamy peach curd was just the thing to offset the richness of the frangipane. Everyone who tasted it loved it, served with a scoop of butter pecan ice cream. The butter pecan ice cream wasn’t my idea, the cook on the boat put it there, and I trust her, she’s British like my tart.

I have mentioned this boat, crew and cook twice now with total nonchalance, but I can’t any longer. I just had one of the coolest weekends ever. I spent three says on a luxury sailboat in Sardinia, Italy. It was unbelievable, I am still in awe just thinking about what a beautiful part of the world I was in. My Bakewell Tart was also very happy to have made the trip, until we ate it of course, after which I don’t think it was quite as pleased. Although we were even happier, a good dessert and a beautiful place on an incredible sailboat; I don’t think it can get much better than that. If it can, don’t tell me, let me revel in the joy of my weekend just a bit longer.

Bakewell Tart

Makes one 23cm (9” tart)
Prep time: less than 10 minutes (plus time for the individual elements)
Resting time: 15 minutes
Baking time: 30 minutes
Equipment needed: 23cm (9”) tart pan or pie tin (preferably with ridged edges), rolling pin

One quantity sweet shortcrust pastry (recipe follows)
Bench flour
250ml (1cup (8 US fl. oz)) jam or curd, warmed for spreadability
One quantity frangipane (recipe follows)
One handful blanched, flaked almonds

Assembling the tart
Place the chilled dough disc on a lightly floured surface. If it's overly cold, you will need to let it become acclimatised for about 15 minutes before you roll it out. Flour the rolling pin and roll the pastry to 5mm (1/4”) thickness, by rolling in one direction only (start from the centre and roll away from you), and turning the disc a quarter turn after each roll. When the pastry is to the desired size and thickness, transfer it to the tart pan, press in and trim the excess dough. Patch any holes, fissures or tears with trimmed bits. Chill in the freezer for 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 200C/400F.

Remove shell from freezer, spread as even a layer as you can of jam onto the pastry base. Top with frangipane, spreading to cover the entire surface of the tart. Smooth the top and pop into the oven for 30 minutes. Five minutes before the tart is done, the top will be poofy and brownish. Remove from oven and strew flaked almonds on top and return to the heat for the last five minutes of baking.

The finished tart will have a golden crust and the frangipane will be tanned, poofy and a bit spongy-looking. Remove from the oven and cool on the counter. Serve warm, with crème fraîche, whipped cream or custard sauce if you wish.

When you slice into the tart, the almond paste will be firm, but slightly squidgy and the crust should be crisp but not tough.

Sweet shortcrust pastry

225g (8oz) all purpose flour
30g (1oz) sugar
2.5ml (½ tsp) salt
110g (4oz) unsalted butter, cold (frozen is better)
2 (2) egg yolks
2.5ml (½ tsp) almond extract (optional)
15-30ml (1-2 Tbsp) cold water

Sift together flour, sugar and salt. Grate butter into the flour mixture, using the large hole-side of a box grater. Using your finger tips only, and working very quickly, rub the fat into the flour until the mixture resembles bread crumbs. Set aside.

Lightly beat the egg yolks with the almond extract (if using) and quickly mix into the flour mixture. Keep mixing while dribbling in the water, only adding enough to form a cohesive and slightly sticky dough.

Form the dough into a disc, wrap in cling and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes

Frangipane

125g (4.5oz) unsalted butter, softened
125g (4.5oz) icing sugar
3 (3) eggs
2.5ml (½ tsp) almond extract
125g (4.5oz) ground almonds
30g (1oz) all purpose flour

Cream butter and sugar together for about a minute or until the mixture is primrose in colour and very fluffy. Scrape down the side of the bowl and add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. The batter may appear to curdle. In the words of Douglas Adams: Don’t panic. Really. It’ll be fine. After all three are in, pour in the almond extract and mix for about another 30 seconds and scrape down the sides again. With the beaters on, spoon in the ground nuts and the flour. Mix well. The mixture will be soft, keep its slightly curdled look (mostly from the almonds) and retain its pallid yellow colour.

Celebrations/Mini Banana-Nutella Strudels

This weekend, one of my dearest friend's older sister is getting married in Rome. I haven't been to a wedding in over 10 years and this one will definitely be incredible. To be honest though, I don't get the same weak in the knees feeling as other people over weddings. I know its wonderful to see two people vow to love each other eternally, but somehow, at this point in my life it just doesn't really move me. Most people tell me that with time that will change, they are probably right, but what I like best about weddings is that they give us another opportunity to celebrate.

I find that celebrations are often forgotten or undervalued, which is unfortunate because my most of my best nights have been celebrating one thing or another. I totally respect my mom for having thrown several celebrate life parties, and it's amazing to see how much fun everyone has. I am sure the open bar didn't hurt, but aside from that people were just excited to have a reason to have fun. Marriage is without a doubt a great reason to celebrate and the wedding party usual exudes that fantastic energy, if only for that, I love weddings and I cannot wait for my weekend.

This week has actually be chock full of celebrations, 2 birthdays and now this wedding. So despite my traumatic exam the other day, I managed to have a great week. My friend's birthday was on Monday, the day before the exam, so I obviously didn't have the time to bake anything for her. I had promised her, however, that within the week, I would have made something for her. I decided to make strudel again, because I like to perfect recipes and since I didn't love the filling last time, I thought it was worth another shot. Also, I wanted to make minis, and since I live in a temporary apartment my kitchen is totally under-accessorized, strudel is great for this because it hardly requires any fancy apparatus.

Right now, my house smells like a mix of warm cinnamon, butter and nutella. It is such a comforting smell, a simple reminder that the small things in life are often the greatest and that even with its ups and downs, life is worth celebrating.

Banana Nutella Mini Strudels
(adapted from from “Kaffeehaus – Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafés of Vienna, Budapest and Prague” by Rick Rodgers)
Makes 10

For dough:
1 1/3 cups (200 g) unbleached flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons (105 ml) water, plus more if needed
2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil, plus additional for coating the dough
1/2 teaspoon cider vinegar

Filling:
1 stick of butter (melted)
1/2 c. breadcrumbs
10 tsp. nutella
1 lrg. banana, cut into batons
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon

1. Combine the flour and salt in a stand-mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix the water, oil and vinegar in a measuring cup. Add the water/oil mixture to the flour with the mixer on low speed. You will get a soft dough. Make sure it is not too dry, add a little more water if necessary.
Take the dough out of the mixer. Change to the dough hook. Put the dough ball back in the mixer. Let the dough knead on medium until you get a soft dough ball with a somewhat rough surface.

2. Take the dough out of the mixer and continue kneading by hand on an unfloured work surface. Knead for about 2 minutes. Pick up the dough and throw it down hard onto your working surface occasionally. Shape the dough into a ball and transfer it to a plate. Oil the top of the dough ball lightly. Cover the ball tightly with plastic wrap. Allow to stand for 30-90 minutes (longer is better).

3. Divide the dough into 10 even pieces. Roll each piece out on a well floured tablecloth until it is tissue thin, using a pastry brush, brush butter and sprinkle well with breadcrumbs. Spread one teaspoon of nutella an inch away from the bottom and place 2 banana batons on the nutella. Roll up folding in the sides, like a burrito. Do this one by one with all 10 pieces of dough. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

4. Preheat the oven to 400º F (200ºC). Combine sugar and cinnamon in a bowl. Brush the strudels with the remaining butter. Sprinkle evenly with the cinnamon-sugar. Bake until a deep golden brown, about 20-30 minutes. Turn the baking sheet halfway through.

Exams/Coconut Ginger Rice Pudding

I would be lying if I said I liked exams. I would also be lying if I told you my exam today went well, to be honest it didn't go at all. Exams in Italy are oral, which if you ask me is a cruel form of torture that should be outlawed if only for the fact that its sole aim to humiliate students. Well that being said, I studied non-stop for a week, went to take it and froze on the spot. It was as if I pushed the off switch on my brain and nothing...oh wait, then I started to cry, bawl, blubber etc. While the three professors (because yes, they have THREE, professors questioning you) sitting in front of me were at a loss. So, that being said, my day did not start off well.

For me, exams usually mean several things, messy apartments, several tears, and comfort food to cure the latter. As far back as I can remember, I have loved rice pudding. But like, really loved. My favorite always has been, and always will be, from Zabar's on the Upper West Side. Maybe it was the first one I ever tasted, alongside chewy bagels and smoky lox at Sunday brunch or maybe it's the first bite from the pint, the one where I scrape the cinnamon off the top, the slight spice accenting the luscious creaminess of the pudding. Whatever it is, I have never been able to recreate it and I have never had another rice pudding that offers me quite the same satisfaction. To be honest, I have never really tried to make a classic rice pudding for fear that it would just dissapoint. I have however, attempted some riffs on the classic, with outstanding results.

If I may say so myself, this Coconut Ginger Rice Pudding, is absolutely perfect. Not too sweet, just creamy enough, with the spicy ginger complementing the hint of gentle coconut flavor. This isn't the first time I have made this, but it is the first time it came out just right. Last summer, I spent a weekend in Toronto at one of my best friend's houses. For breakast, I was stunned when her mom prepared a bowl of warm rice drizzled with coconut milk and sprinkled with turbinado sugar. After tasting it, I was hooked. The combination was perfect, and I knew that I would have to turn it into rice pudding. I have been planning on making this rice pudding all week for a super top secret reason, which I promise I will share when I can. But get excited, it's going to be good. After sifting through recipes, I settled on the most simple one I found and adapted it to fit my needs. This is the perfect example of how simple can be better, I beg you try this at home. Top it with fruit or eat it as is, you will not be dissaspointed. Trust me, I may not be able to do an oral exam, but I am a rice pudding aficionado.

Coconut Ginger Rice Pudding
(adapted from Smitten Kitchen who adapted it from Gale Gand)
Serves 4-6 (depends how much you like it...)
Time 30-40 mins.

Ingredients:
1/2 c. arborio rice
1/4 c. turbinado sugar
1.5 cans Coconut Milk (use the whole one, not light)
2 c. whole milk
2 tbsp. fresh grated ginger

Directions:

Put everything in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring from time to time. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 30-40 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed. Cool before serving.

Missing Home/Curried Chickpea Crespelle

As I have mentioned several times before my year in Italy has been an incredible series of ups and downs. Don't get me wrong, it has been absolutely amazing, I wouldn't trade in any second of it and I am so sad that it is slowly drawing to a close, but on some days I just want to be home with the people I know and love so much who make me feel safe and comfy no matter what. This weekend I went to meet up with two my friends from uni in the Cinque Terre. Aside from the fact that it was beautiful, it was absolutely wonderful.














I sometimes forget what it's like to be among girlfriends, three of us in a bed, talking until we fall asleep, trying to keep talking but eventually only muttering as our mouths follow our brains and find time to rest for a moment. You can only really find friendship like that with time and history, neither of which I have here. As my weekend becomes a memory, I find myself feeling a little alone, wishing we had had just one more day together. Aside from the girly-ness, my incredible weekend also included a five hour hike among the cliffs on the seaside and of course some great food to counterbalance any calories I may have burned during the hike.














Liguria, the region in which the Cinque Terre are found, is known for pesto, focaccia and farinata. The latter is a combination of chickpea flour, water and a little bit of oil which is then baked until the outside is golden and crisp. Nutty and dense this oven-baked pancake is great as a snack and can be eaten plain or topped in any which way. Today, in an attempt to relive the flavors of my weekend, I finally made use of the chickpea flour that has been sitting in my pantry and decided to make Chickpea crespelle. After browsing a few recipes, I figured out the basic proportions I would need and just eye-balled it from there. I decided to flavor the crespelle with curry and peperoncino and fill them with veal and zucchini.



















The flavors melded together perfectly and I had an exquisite dinner for one. Although it didn't teleport me back to my friends, I just remind myself that every moment is worth savoring, even the more difficult ones. But a delicious homecooked dinner and the flavors of good memories definitely help to make those moments a little more tolerable.

Chickpea Crespelle with Veal and Zucchini Filling
30 mins. serves 1.

Crespelle (makes 2):
50 gr. chickpea flour
1 egg
1 c. water
1.5 tbsp curry powder, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant
1 tsp. dried peperoncino (add more or less depending on taste)
pinch of salt

1. Whisk all the ingredients the ingredients together until smooth. Set aside.
2. Prepare filling (below).
3. Heat some olive oil in a pan over med-high heat. Pour in enough batter to cover the bottom. Let it cook until the top looks dry about 2 mins. Flip. Cook the for another 10 seconds.
4. Roll with half the filling.
5. Make the second crepe and fill. Eat while warm.

Filling:
1 small round zucchini, grated
100 g. ground veal
1 tbsp. chopped chives.
Salt to taste

1. Sautee the zucchini with some olive oil over medium heat. When it is tender (3 mins) add the veal and brown it evenly. Add the chives, and sautee until the meat is cooked through (2-3 mins).

The Flavors of Spring/Fava and Pea Salad

There are weeks when I doubt myself more than usual, when all I want is some sort of external justification, I want someone or something to give me a reason to believe that everything is going to be OK, that people really do like me, and that it's inner beauty that counts. On weeks like these, I miss home, and when I miss home I do my best to bring home to me. Every spring, when the cherry blossoms start blooming and the baby ducks are following their mother in the 72nd street pond, my mother is insistent on weekly trips to the farmer's market. Aside from tradition, this is pure indulgence, whoever said that only cakes and sweets are indulgent, is just plain wrong. I am the first person to proclaim myself as a sweet tooth, but when I find the freshest, seasonal fruits and vegetables I can't help but think that they are the kings and queens of all things edible, that nothing, no matter how elaborate can surpass the flavors of farm to plate.
The one thing that my mom always buys without fail, are fava beans. Maybe it's that they remind her of her Italian roots, maybe it's that they taste like spring-in-a-pod, no matter what it is, they are always delicious. During our family reunion, we all sat around in the living room, peeling (and then peeling again) fresh favas, popping them one by one into our mouths, desperate to make the process go faster. But favas, like the arrival of Spring, can't be rushed. The methodical double peeling may seem tedious to some, but to me it is soothing, and when I taste the fruits of my labor it is worth the time spent doing it. Although I also enjoy peeling them alone, giving myself time to reflect, the best is sitting side by side with a good friend or a loved one, chatting and not seeing the time fly as the daunting pile of pods slowly dinishes. This also defines the stereotypical image of Italian women, sitting outside their homes doing some kind of handiwork, while chatting away with their neighbors. It's all part of a really beautiful experience, of nurturing, providing and creating. Nurturing the vegetables, providing food for your family and creating friendships and relationships that never really go away.
So, on weeks when the blue sky just doesn't seem blue enough and the heat is a burden rather than a joy, I turn to the flavors of home and slowly, everything falls back into place. This fava bean and sweet pea salad is a springtime staple in my house, the smoky pancetta is an ideal backdrop for the sweet peas and slightly more bitter favas. It is also, incredibly easy, because like I said, when it comes to good vegetables, little to no work is need to make it good.

My Mother's Spring Fava and Pea Salad
serves. 8
Time: about 40 mins., excluding fava peeling.
Notes:
•Frozen favas can replace fresh, just remember that they also have a skin that needs to be peeled off. Same goes for the peas (minus the peeling part).
•This recipe can easily be expanded or diminished, and the ingredients can be changed pretty easily, chopped asparagus and green beans are other great alternatives.

Ingredients:
• 3 c. sweet peas
• 3 c. peeled favas
• 1/4 c. cubed pancetta
• 3 med. shallots, thinly sliced.
• a few tbsp. olive oil
• sprinkle of coarse sea salt

Instructions:
1) Boil the peas and favas in salty water for 5-6 minutes each. Until, they are cooked through but firm. Set aside to cool.
2) Render the fat from the pancetta, until it is crispy. Spoon the pancetta onto a plate. Add 2 tbsp olive oil to the pan with the remaining fat.
3) Gently caramelized the shallots in the same pan.
4) Combine everything in a large serving bowl. Add a bit more olive oil and salt as necessary.
5) Can be served right away, or can be prepared the night or morning before and refrigerated.

Family/I have never eaten so much in my life

Part of me wishes I had more food pictures to show for the weekend, to prove that the following story is true. I'm asking you to trust me and enjoy the picture of my two cousins walking towards my uncle's delightful house after a morning at the market.

The thought of family reunions usually makes me cringe. Aside from the fact that they usually involve more fighting than getting along, for me, the term conjures up images of oddly composed fruit and cheese skewers, gloppy chili and orange creamsicle jello. I'm not exactly sure why I think this, because I have neither had creamsicle jello nor a family reunion.

Well, not until last weekend that is, when I finally understood why families even bother reuniting. And I promise it was not just the food that did it (although that definitely didn't hurt). It was the wine. Ha. No, but really, the time outside the requisite 6 hours of eating per day, was nice, no more than nice, it was fun!

Lucky for me, my family is Italian, which means only one thing: good food. When I say Italian, I mean in Italy, the real deal. So when we landed in Calabria, where I am 99% sure that no one has ever even heard of creamsicle jello, I knew I was in for a special weekend. What they do know in Calabria is that the woodsy freshness of wild mint makes a great gelato, and that frying hunks of yeasty bread dough tastes better than baking it, and that ricotta is meant to be eaten straight out of the wooden basket it was made in the same morning. So although southern Italy may be behind in some regards, when it comes to food it offers fearless dishes with flavors bolder than any I have tasted.

As I was saying, I was really having such a great time discovering new places and getting to know new people. Not just people, but family, who will always welcome me into their homes and offer a hand when a hand is needed. Some of the "marry-ins" made sure to remind us that they do not share chromosomes with the rest of us--so we all get along but mostly because we recognize and accept each others' nuttiness--but I am pretty sure that they wish they were blessed enough to be born into a family like mine.

And although I may never learn why potatoes in Calabria actually taste like potatoes; I did learn that my great-uncle knows how to roast them to perfection. I may never understand the art of thin and tender ravioli like the pork and anise ones I had; I do understand that although my nonna never listens to anyone, she knows us all better than we think. And even if I am never lucky enough to eat as well as I did last weekend; I am lucky because I got to spend time with 25 irraplaceable people, who easily make this world a friendlier place to live in.

Creativity/Arancine Maki

On occasion, I amaze myself. Usually I don't see myself as very special or different from the rest of the world; I mean, yes, I am a kind and warm hearted person, but so are many others (thankfully). When I decided to write this blog I really hesitated, because like I say in the description, I'm still trying to figure out what differentiates me from others on many levels. First, as a person and secondly as a foodie, what makes my passion, skills and talents different from the next persons? Sometimes I am reading restaurant menus and I come across a creative dish and the whole thing seems so obvious, but then I started to doubt myself and wonder why, if it is so obvious, I wasn't able to come up with it myself.

But Like I said, on occasion I amaze myself and today I did so by making what I like to call Arancine Maki. Essentially, this is the classic sicilian dish Arancine, a fried, stuffed ball of risotto. Rather than shaping it into a ball and formed a log which I then friend and sliced in rounds like the Japanese Maki. Arancine means little oranges, this dish is called that way because of its shape and the orangey golden color it takes on when it is fried. Traditionally, you can either get an arancina rossa or arancina bianca depending on what they are filled with the rossa is filled with meat sauce and peas and the bianca with ham and mozzarella and some bechamel.

Because I was working on my creativity (and dealing with limited ingredients in my fridge) I used zucchini and goat cheese. The green zucchini emulated the seaweed used in traditional sushi and the goat cheese added a perfect tang to the sweet risotto and zucchini. Garnished with some reduced balsamic vinegar (soy sauce) it was the perfect balance of creamy, smooth and tart. I was so pround of this dish because not only was it delicious, but it was different, something that I had never seen before. And now that I made it, I can only think of a other variations, sweet, savory, traditional, untraditional. The funny thing about creativity is that the more you use it the more creative you feel. After this experiment, I just keep coming up with more and more great ideas (which I promise to eventually share), I am totally loving it!
Arancine Maki
makes 8-12 pieces

1 c. prepared saffron risotto (slightly overcooked, make sure it is thick and sticky)
2 tbsp. grated parmiggiano reggiano or grana padano
1 zucchini ribboned with a vegetable peeler
2 tbsp. soft goat cheese
1 cup bread crumbs
1 egg beaten
oil for frying
syrupy balsamic for garnish

1. Sprinkle a sushi roller with some of the bread crumbs and spread the risotto into a 7" x 7" square. Lay the zucchini strips overlapping on the rice square, make sure to trim any overhang.
2. Crumble goat cheese across the middle and roll up like sushi. Wrap and refrigerate for 30 mins.
3. Heat up oil for frying. Dip roll in egg and then in the bread crumbs. Fry until deeply golden.
4. Drain on paper towels and then slice in rounds. Serve hot.

Great Chefs/Tuna from a Can

I know better than almost anyone how spoiled I have been in my life. Which at least, takes out the "brat factor." Spoiled, yes. Brat, never. Given my interest in food, I have no doubt that my favorite part of being spoiled is the unbelievable food that I have had the opportunity to eat. From 4 star restaurants to homemade dinners in Italy every meal has been a journey, a story to tell and analyze.

In the words of my beloved Carrie Bradshaw, I couldn't help but wonder...what is it that defines a good chef from a great chef? I mean its easy to tell apart someone who knows how to make mediocre food from exquisite food, but really when you start to think about la creme de la creme. I don't know if I think it's fair to say that one is better than another. Lets look at David Chang and Daniel Boulud, why is it that Boulud gets 4 NYT stars, but Chang only 3? For me, Chang's food is more star-worthy than Boulud's. I guess, I just want food, nothing fussy, nothing over the top, dishes where the ingredients are showcased in their ideal forms, and at the end of it all, it just tastes good.

Based on that, today, I was a great chef. A can of italian tuna in olive oil, a few cracks of black pepper, a drizzle of thick balsamic vinegar. And a fork of course. Let me tell you, when you can get your hands on the best ingredients, it doesn't take much to be a great chef. Not that I would be able to serve this to guests of course, even though I would kind of like to...

Spring is Here/Berry Butter Cake

Although I have been feeling spring for a few weeks now, today is the first official day of Spring. And with a dinner party to go to, I decided to jump ahead a season and make a summer cake. It is Spring after all, the time of new beginnings, and these possibilities seem endless. I hate (slash love) to be cliche when I talk about Spring, but there is just something poetic about it. Winter blues turn turquoise, the 65 degrees that felt cold in the fall now feel just right, and waking up in the morning with the sun shining feels like pleasure rather than penance.
So to celebrate, I decided to make a summer berry cake with lemon curd filling. The first time I made this cake was in the 7th grade, Memorial Day weekend in Watch Hill, Rhode Island. I was there with my then best friend who also loved to bake and we unanimously picked this recipe out of that month's Gourmet. I don't know why, but I never forgot about this slightly pink cake; a moist spongy gem studded with raspberries, blueberries and blackberries. Today, I decided to give this recipe a face lift by slicing it in two and filling it with tart and creamy lemon curd.

It's always interesting to cook such "American" desserts for my Italian friends. Italian's are not always an easy bunch to please, they have their ways and they like to stick with them. In some ways, I would almost say that making such a sinful dessert for them may leave me with a disadvantage, I have finally made it onto the facebook message roster, it seems that people might actually (gasp) want to hang out with me. So what am I doing? Well I guess I am just doing what I love, following my heart when I feel comfortable doing so. And also, I have an advantage, as an Italian I know that even the finest most high brow Italian could never say no to this cake. Just look at it, isn't it pretty?

Notes:
• I used an 11" round pan instead or the rectangular one suggested, it does lead to thinner layers but I like round cakes.
• I also could have easily doubled the curd recipe, it would have definitely given the cake an extra something.
• Make the curd first and let it cool in the fridge while you assemble the cake.
• Make sure the cake is completely cooled before you cut it in half, if not it will fall apart.

Lemon Curd (from Martha Stewart Living, January 2002)

• 3 large egg yolks
• Zest of 1/2 lemon
• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, (2 lemons)
• 6 tablespoons sugar
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into pieces

Combine yolks, lemon zest, lemon juice, and sugar in a small saucepan. Whisk to combine. Set over medium heat, and stir constantly with a wooden spoon, making sure to stir sides and bottom of pan. Cook until mixture is thick enough to coat back of wooden spoon, 5 to 7 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a medium bowl. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the curd to avoid a skin from forming; wrap tightly. Let cool; refrigerate until firm and chilled, at least 1 hour.

Store, refrigerated in an airtight container, up to 2 days.

Three Berry Butter Cake (from Gourmet, July 2000)

• 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 3 large eggs at room temperature
• 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 2 1/2 cups cake flour (not self-rising)
• 6 cups mixed berries (1 3/4 ponds) such as raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries
• 2 tablespoons confectioners sugar

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 13- by 9- by 2-inch metal baking pan, then line bottom with wax paper and grease paper.

Heat butter with cream in a small saucepan over low heat until melted, then cool.

Beat eggs, granulated sugar, and salt with an electric mixer on high speed until mixture is thick, pale, and forms a ribbon when beaters are lifted, about 5 minutes with a standing mixer or about 12 minutes with a handheld. Add zest, baking powder, and vanilla and mix on low speed until blended.

Add 1 1/4 cups flour and half of butter mixture and mix on low speed until blended. Mix in remaining butter and 1 1/4 cups flour in same manner. Increase speed to medium and beat 1 minute with a standing mixer or 2 minutes with a handheld, or until batter is thick and sticky. Add berries and carefully fold in with a rubber spatula until barely combined. (Raspberries will begin to fall apart, and batter will look slightly pink.) Spoon batter into baking pan, gently smoothing top. Bake in middle of oven until springy to the touch and a tester inserted into center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Cool completely in pan on a rack.

Run a knife around edge of cake, then invert rack over cake and flip cake onto it. Remove wax paper and reinvert onto a platter.

Just before serving, dust with confectioners sugar.

Courage/Frenchie's Bread

I did it! After watching, who knows how many videos on kneading and proofing and second rises; reading endless recipe variations; and trusting myself to feel what was right, I finally made a tender, crusty, satisfying loaf of bread.

I think my greatest conclusion is that bread shouldn't be bread until it is bread. In other words, I wanted my dough to look and feel like bread, but usually that meant that I had over floured it and thus the result was dense and just wrong.

Saturday I went to a birthday party near Torino, it was a birthday party for a set of twins, and they were the only people at the party I knew. As I was leaving my house, I was so nervous. As much as I am getting used to living in a new country, my Italian lacks certain colloquialisms that would definitely make it a lot easier for me to socialize; however, I force myself night after night to put myself out there, let myself feel uncomfortable and just try to have fun because the truth is, I have nothing to lose. So I was at this party, and I was having such a nice time, everyone was friendly and interesting; and, people started asking me what I wanted to be "when I grow up." Truth, I do not consider myself a grown up yet (unless I am trying to convince my parents that I am "grown up" enough to do god knows what).
So as I was telling my new friends that no matter what my career would consists of cooking and food, they started to ask me more details, like what I prefer to make and what type of cuisine is my favorite. I decided to tell them about my adventures in breadmaking. Maybe it was the fact that I was willing to admit my failures to a group of strangers, or maybe it was that I was willing to admit it to myself, but the next day I opened the oven and out came the most perfect, golden loaf of bread. Putting myself out there, in the kitchen and out can be daunting, but at least this weekend, it was totally worth it.

Frenchie's Bread

125 g Bread Flour
125 g "00" flour + 2-3 tbsp. for dusting.
12.5 g Fresh Active Yeast
2 cups of warm water.
3 tbsp. olive oil
2 tsp. salt
1. Crumble yeast in water and let sit until foamy on top. Meanwhile, combine flours and 2 tbsp. olive in a large bowl. Add in water and combine thoroughly.
2. Lightly dust your counter with flour and begin kneading the dough. I used the "slap and fold" method. Gourmet describes this as " Slide your fingers underneath both sides of dough with your thumbs on top. Lift dough up (to about chest level) with your thumbs toward you, letting dough hang slightly. In a continuous motion, swing dough down, slapping bottom of dough onto surface, then stretch dough up and back over itself in an arc to trap in air. Repeat lifting, slapping, and stretching, scraping surface with flat side of bowl scraper as needed, until dough is supple, cohesive" (http://www.gourmet.com/magazine/video/2008/03/bertinet_sweetdough) This took me a long time because I am less familiar with this method.
3. Place kneaded dough in a well oiled bowl and let sit in a warm spot until double in size.
4. When it has doubled, slide onto counter, fold over several times to release some of the air bubbles, form into a smooth ball and let double again.
5. Take the ball out, reshape into a smooth loaf and place on baking sheet, gently cut an X into the top of the loaf. Lightly oil the loaf and let it rest/rise for 30 minutes. Meanwhile preheat oven to 425 degrees. When the oven is fully heated place a baking sheet filled half-way with water into the bottom of the oven.
6. Make sure oven is fully heated and put the baking sheet with the bread into the oven. After about 15 minutes, add another cup of cold water to the baking sheet at the bottom of the oven, the steam will help the bread fully rise and develop a thick crunch crust.
7. The bread should be ready after about 30 to 40 minutes. When the crust on both the top and bottom is golden brown.
8. Make sure to let the bread fully cool on a rack to allow for proper air circulation. It is also important to let the bread finish its cooking cycle.

Afternoon Activities/Homemade Pasta

So, I have been living in Milano, Italy for about five months now and I can tell you that I have had the opportunity to eat such delicious food, but I have so much more to try. I just moved into a new apartment, with a more adequate kitchen then before, so now my goal is to test, make, and enjoy as many dishes as possible. A few days ago, I decided that I wanted to try making homemade pasta.
Italian supermarkets are known for one key characteristic, they only sell Italian products. Upon leaving the states I bid farewell to the international foods aisle and welcomed the variety and quality of Italian products at the supermarket. One thing that amazed me the most was the quantity and variety of fresh pastas available. Fresh pasta has a richer, chewier consistency then dried semolina pasta, and its depth of flavor enlivens any sauce of preparation. I decided that I would learn how to make these delicious, eggy noodles myself. A few days later, equipped with "00" flour, a few eggs, and a pasta roller I set off on my journey of pasta making fun.

And it turned out to be just that, fun. I had to trust myself and my instincts, at points I wondered how the sticky mixture would ever become tagliatelle, but eventually it did. It also became rustic sweet pea and ricotta ravioli.

The kick of the peperoncino enlived the a wiggly tagliatelle, while the drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle of grana showcased the richness of the homemade noodles. I was amazed at how tender the ravioli were, acting as vessels for the sweet and creamy filling.

The time and effort dedicated to making homemade pasta is absolutely worth it. The variations are endless, each time a new experience and outcome, as pasta names keep popping into my head, I may just have to run out and stock up on some more flour and eggs....